Hammerite Kurust Rust Remover for Metal. Rust Treatment and Rust Converter for Metal Interior and Exterior to Remove Brown Spots - 90ml

Product Information

Remote areas/Scottish Highlands and non-UK Mainland areas may be subject to additional charges and a longer delivery time. This is determined by our couriers not Rustbuster. Another tip is get yourself a set of small cheap digital jewelers scales and some plastic cups and mix the epoxy by weight. Special precautions should be taken to avoid inhalation of dust during surface preparation of pre-1960’s paint surfaces as they may contain harmful lead. Caution

So I would touch up the rust spots with 87 / 90a rub level with the surrounding paint then prime the whole area with standard epoxy primer. Oil and grease contamination will prevent the conversion First of all, a lot of the the underneath of most cars, especially Land Rovers, is contaminated with oil and grease from leaking oil seals etc. On oil or grease contaminated areas, unless the underside is extremely thoroughly cleaned, degreased, and then completely dried, the rust converter will not work. So you are very likely to have the nightmare scenario of an ineffective, poorly adhering coating sitting between the rusty surface and any coating of rustproofing wax, making the rustproofing wax totally ineffectual. Waxoyl, and my similar, more formulted CR coating, are petrochemicals very similar to oil and grease from leaking seals of mechanical parts on the underbody. The Jenolite Spray looks different to the others and offered the best protection in our test. It’s good value and was incredibly easy to apply too. A spray might not be suitable for all parts of your car though, so the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 is our favourite liquid if you prefer to use a brush. Read moreor sand blast it, but this is a painstaking process and not everyone has a sand blaster :L also to do it right would require dropping of the subframe. Once applied, the spray Jenolite had a waxy-like finish which meant it clung to our steel far better than the other liquids. Despite this greasy look, it took the paint without a problem. Its rust-busting performance was by far the best on test with minimal rust showing on our sample after its constant salt baths. Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 Shows Kurust converter, the clear winner out of the 4 converters tested. Score marks through the apparently converted rusty surface tmade with a Stanley Knife blade. Small batches and often is the way to go so you cover nice clean steel as soon as possible, I normally do it last thing before I leave the garage at night. Even on the bodywork a stone chip or scratch can soon grow into a nasty blister, and you need to treat rust properly to stop it spreading. Rust removal involves spending hours with a wire brush or strong acidic chemicals that are dangerous to use, so it is far easier and safer to use a rust converter. These stop reaction in the metal using special ingredients, which neutralise the corrosion and allow you to paint over it.

And yes, press the rubber bit against what you are blasting - most of the media gets collected in the bag so you can reuse it - and it doesn't go everywhere. I found I had to run a higher pressure than the instructions claimed to get good results. Different shapes allow you to get in and seal to lots of nooks and crannies without too much lost media. To test these clever corrosion-killing concoctions we left unpainted sections of 1mm mild steel out exposed to the elements until they’d developed a uniform level of deep surface rust. We then treated them with our test products, making sure we followed the instructions carefully, applying the suggested number of coats. The Kurust has definitely transformed the rust and turned it into a really solid surface for painting on.You know you have a serious product when it has stamps of approval from organisations like NATO and the Ministry of Defence. If it works on tanks and warships then the bottom of your Cortina probably won’t be an issue. Use Oil, now alot of people say use old engine oil and put it in a spray gun, I once asked an engineer about this and he said it could have negative effects becuase of the other chemicals that have gotten mixed in with the oil while it was in the engine and could actually eat in to the metal (if thats true or not i dont know, but it seems a good point), thats also why I said use clean grease too, so if it was me id put oil on thats never been used. I have an Alfa Romeo 75 that is a running restoration, I'm working my way around the car bit by bit. It's not going to be a show car or anything like that but I still like to make sure I do my best with every part I work on. I only really use epoxy mastic for suspension and other bits not seen or that will be stone chipped or on really pitted steel.